I was torn. What would it be? What would it be?
I had heard that Holder’s Barbecue and Burgers was the best. Not just in Montgomery County, but among the best in Texas.
The tales of Bobby Holder’s barbecue brisket sandwich were legend. I’d also been told stories about the juicy cheese burger and how people would drive for miles to his restaurant along Highway 105 in Dobbin between Montgomery and Plantersville.
As I stood at the walk-up window waiting to place my order I couldn’t help but gawk at the décor. Hundreds of license plates from across the U.S. carpeted the rustic barnwood walls. A handwritten cardboard sign near the register read, “If You’re In A Hurry, Go To Houston!”
I do love a good cheeseburger, but today the thought of a smoked barbecue brisket sandwich sounded real good. I got it with extra sauce, pickles, onions and pickled jalapenos. As a good friend of mine says, it was “mighty fine.” The brisket was piled high on a fresh bun and the sweet iced tea washed down a side of hot, crispy fries with ease.
The smoky sweet barbecue sauce worked its way into my mustache and ran down my chin. I didn’t even try to stop it. This was good Texas eatin’.
As I savored this roadside treat I took in the atmosphere. Seated to my right at a heavy wooden picnic table with names and hearts carved into its surface was a monk, a gypsy, and two civilians . . . obviously on the way the Texas Renaissance Festival a few miles to the east. A large ice house-style dining room and dance hall to the side featured a whiskey keg bar surrounded by barnwood walls and topped with a high rusty tin ceiling.
Deer and boar head mounts shared wall space along side neons and signs with slogans like, “Fish Naked . . . Show Off Your Bobbers”, and a bikini clad mannequin cowgirl on a balcony overlooking the scene.
The wooden floor had been intentionally designed to creak with the sound of a much older building and the wide garage doors across the way opened onto an oak shaded yard where live music plays when the weather cooperates. This was the whole package.
The building, barbecue, burgers and Bobby Holder . . . It was a Texas-style treat for the senses, and a great outcome from my dilemma in Dobbin.
Michael Baxter is the Texas Travelin’ Man
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