It’s a new year, a leap year. A whole new 366 days to explore the adventure to be found on Texas back roads, on Main Street, and in the heart of Texans who make this the greatest state in the Union.

On my calendar for this year are blogging and photo trips to new craft breweries such as the Karbach Brewing Company in Houston, and established wineries from Bernhardt in Plantersville to the Fairhaven Vineyards in Hawkins.

Minor League baseball will be played for the first time in Sugar Land when the Skeeters take to the diamond at Constellation Field this spring. I plan to be there to cover the action. 

I’ll be heading over to Grand Saline to check out the reptilian action at the East Texas Gators & Wildlife Park, paying my respects at painted churches, and continuing the search for the best catfish kitchen in the state. So much to see, so much report . . .

In 2011 Texas highways led me to some mighty fine food, new friends, little known historical spots, and quirky attractions. Quality time spent with retired railroad man Bobby Jack Middleton in Hearne and Frank the hobo in Tomball was unexpected. The thick chocolate malt that I found at The Diner in Corsicana brought back childhood memories, while hearing first person accounts of the ghosts of Galveston, San Antonio and on The Lex in Corpus Christi was chilling.    

Coming face-to-face with “Old Sparky”, the infamous electric chair at Huntsville’s Texas Prison Museum, was thoughtful provoking, and visiting the graves of men who fought for the Texas military during the American Civil War was humbling.

I loved touring the Tee Pee Motel in Wharton with its rows of cone-shaped lodges, a throwback to the day when the family summer vacation was made in a station wagon and Route 66 was more than just a tune on the AM radio.

Sampling Dr Pepper made from the original sugar laced recipe in Dublin was sweet . . . pun intended. The Sterling McCall Cadillac Museum in Warrenton was a nice surprise and exploring the historic Fulton Mansion near Rockport was really cool for a fan of architectural design.

Then there were the churches, big and small. The stained glass at the Bethlehem Lutheran Church in Round Top was “heavenly”, and the tiny Saint Martin’s Catholic Church on Highway 237 was so . . . small.

The mom-and-pop restaurants that I visited in 2011 were no less than awesome. The T-bone steak at San Antonio’s Josephine Street Café easily went head-to-head with the fried shrimp at the Laguna Reef in Flour Bluff. Barbecue at Holders in Dobbin was just as good as the original “pig sandwich” at the Pig Stand on Broadway in the Alamo City. And, the burger at the Chicken Oil Company in Bryan is still at the top of my list . . . well, at least for now.

My Texas getaways were seriously good in 2011. Maybe this year you’ll hit the road to create your own Lone Star adventures and meet a character or two.  I certainly plan to keep on pick-up truckin’ across the state on my own as a Texas trekker. It’s just too much fun not to!

Listen . . . the open road is calling. Can you hear it?  

“How jerky is that?” That’s what some of my friends might say when they open their Christmas gift from me in a couple of days.

I was driving home to Houston from north Texas recently and listening to non-stop holiday music thanks to my wife.  Between Thanksgiving and Christmas she has the incredible ability to sniff out every radio station in Texas that plays songs of the season 24-7. Needless to say I had Christmas on my mind.

As we drove along I-45 I thought about my own Christmases past, what I might be getting from Santa this year, and what I was going to get for my hard-to-shop-for friends. That’s when it came to me like a tide of Yule . . . so to speak. We were just minutes from Woody’s Smokehouse – “The Jerky Capital of the World”, and I was now a Santa on a holiday mission.

Woody’s Smokehouse has been a roadside destination for travelers passing through Centerville for a long time. One side of the shop is a traditional convenience store with grocery items, chilled coolers filled with soft drinks and adult beverages, and off-the-wall things from Christmas tree shaped auto air fresheners to jumbo sized cigarette lighters. But, it’s the other side of the store that beckons today . . . the side filled with jerky and jars of tasty southern memories to share on December 25^th.

Through the glass of the market style display cases I could see all sorts of meaty gift ideas, dried and bagged for purchase. For the unadventurous there was traditional beef jerky and turkey jerky. Good choices under normal circumstances, but lacking as spicy stocking stuffers at Christmas.

Then I saw them and the holiday shopping frenzy began. There was hickory smoked peppered beef jerky next to spiced venison jerky. Hot elk and smoked elk jerky shared space with thick smoked buffalo jerky. There was sweet and spicy beef jerky and Teriyaki beef jerky, along with dried pork jerky. On top of the cases were what looked to be old round cheese hoops filled with more jerky . . . bags of jalapeno beef jerky, smoked turkey tenders, meat “sticks” of all description and more.   This was like a grown up version of a kid in a candy store.

The gift gathering continued as I turned to find Mason-like jars loaded with horseradish jelly and watermelon rind pickles. Shelves were packed with southern style pickled ocra, green tomato pickles, “Peachy Peach” halves, and cherry cobbler. “I didn’t know that my Mema worked in the kitchen Woody’s Smokehouse,” I thought with a grin as a grabbed a jar of sweet pickles.

This was nice. I was going to share some good eats and Texas-style memories with my friends this Christmas compliments of the old smokehouse in Centerville.

Oh, by the way . . . Santa is good to go. There was no reindeer jerky to be found. I asked!

It’s Christmastime in Texas . . .

Traditions range from cowboy boot tree ornaments and long horns with Christmas balls dangling left and right, to snowmen decked out in western wear and Poncho Claus delivering toys to kids from his lowrider in the barrio.

 Whether you’re a fan or not, one Texas holiday tradition has been around since before the turn of the last century - the Christmas fruitcake from the Collin Street Bakery in Corsicana.

Loaded with fists full of pecans, cherries, pineapple, raisins, papaya, sugar and all sorts of other stuff, the DeLuxe Texas Fruitcake is a Lone Star legend. On a recent visit to the 105-year old bakery on West 7^th Avenue in downtown Corsicana, I watched as hundreds of folks sampled and searched for the perfect holiday treat to share with their family and friends.

Just imagine . . . this is the fruitcake given to the Crown Heads of Europe by circus great John Ringling. It was enjoyed by American cowboy and humorist Will Rogers, and world famous Italian tenor Enrico Caruso.  There I was surrounded by fruitcake lovers and those, like myself, willing to give the much maligned holiday dessert a second chance based on reputation.

There were all sorts of tasty-looking options displayed behind the glass. There was an apricot pecan cake, a pineapple pecan cake, and an apple cinnamon pecan cake. Then there was the Texas Blonde pecan cake and mini pecan cakes in tiny tins. Deluxe Petites and chocolate Petites and apricot Petites and pineapple pecan Petites . . . it was overwhelming. But wait… there was more.

I had come to taste the legend and maybe take one home, but no . . . I was now confronted with the Collin Street Bakery’s New York cheese cake, a key lime cheese cake, a praline pecan cheese cake, berry cheese cakes of all sorts and something called a Pumpkin Extravaganza. Then there were the traditional cakes, pies and cookies, not to mention the candies and nuts. Why were they making it so difficult? Why?

I worked and weaved my way to the counter only to find that the covered sample tray had been picked clean by fruit cake scavengers ahead of me. It was a Christmas conspiracy . . . the anticipation, the waiting, and now this.

I broke from the counter, and based on pure faith and a century old reputation, I picked up a tin of fruit-laden Texas tradition and walked slowly to the check-out. 

Today as I wait patiently for the family Christmas dinner in a few short days I wonder, will this fruitcake from Collin Street Bakery become a tradition in my home? Maybe so, but if not I sure have a lot of other choices at the old bakery to work with and I have no problem giving each of them a try.

You’ve got to love Christmastime in small town Texas. From Orange to El Paso and Brownsville to Amarillo, lights are strung throughout downtown with care, in hopes that the tourist soon would be there. 

Not too far north of Dallas is the town of McKinney. For 31-years the community has staged one “Dickens of a Christmas” and this year I was there to join in the celebration. Though not as large or flamboyant as the famed Dickens on the Strand in Galveston, McKinney still throws a great holiday party on the Square every Thanksgiving weekend.

The gray sky, crisp temps and steady breeze added to the Victorian era theme of the decorated downtown.  As we strolled the 12-block historic district we noticed that “A Christmas Carol” was being performed at McKinney Performing Arts Center inside the old courthouse. Nearby, Santa was listening closely to a young boy as the child confirmed that he had been good all year long and that an X-Box would be the perfect gift to find under the tree this Christmas.

At the corner of Tennessee Street and Virginia two women dressed in their Victorian best posed for a photo. “Make it quick”, one said as the cold wind whipped beneath her dress. They were heading inside for hot tea and cookies.

All around us families walked together, talked together, and experienced quality time together as if traveling with the Ghost of Christmas Past to time long ago. There was caroling on one street corner and hand bells on another. The Victorian magic show befuddled a group of kids as their parents stood back with their cups of hot coffee and tea.

Out front of the historic Grand Hotel McKinney was a garland wrapped karaoke stage where youngsters took turns singing loud and out-of-tune renditions of Rudolf the Red Nosed Reindeer and Jingle Bells. But, no one cared that they weren’t pitch perfect. It was Christmastime in McKinney and everyone was having fun.

The restaurants and shops around the Square were in full holiday mode. There were festive decorations both inside and out. The original Panty Restaurant was filled with festival goers at lunchtime looking for a ho-ho-home-cooked meal. I had the Blue Plate Special . . . a large portion of meat loaf with hot mashed potatoes and a bowl of beans. It was mighty fine on this blustery day in north Texas.

This is what Christmas in small town Texas is - happy faces, greeting everyone with a wave or a friendly nod, spending time with the family and joining in a tune or two celebrating the real reason for the season.  

Don’t even consider being a Scrooge if you’re coming to McKinney at Christmas. Bah humbugs are not allowed.  

Be sure to visit TourTexas.com for a complete list of Christmas festivals and celebrations throughout Texas.








  Michael Baxter is the Texas Travelin' Man


Always visit TourTexas.com for the latest Texas Travel information, travel guides and Texas brochures.

There should have been a big banner over the street that read “Just add snow!”. 

Christmastime surrounded us as we walked along the crowded sidewalk in scenic downtown Grapevine. Everywhere you looked there were colorful lights and smiling faces, giant red bows and displays of the season.  But it was more than the festive decorations; Christmastime was in the crisp north Texas air. You could feel it and it felt real good.

Grapevine knows how to celebrate Christmas and it shows in the weeks of activities staged throughout December. On this particular night we were there for no particular reason other than to just enjoy the atmosphere that is Grapevine during the holidays.
 

The animated North Pole was a favorite for kids. I stood and watched as they ran from a Keebler-like treehouse with busy elves, to a toy workshop, and then on Santa’s bedroom where more elves frantically tried to wake their bearded buddy for his annual trek to the south.

A short walk past whimsically decorated collectible shops and boutiques was a park with thousands of synchronized holiday lights. The gazebo flashed multicolored patterns in the night alongside a conical Christmas tree towering nearby. First solid green then red, next came a rainbow of light followed by total darkness only to repeat again to the beat of traditional Christmas tunes. It was hypnotic and fascinating to watch standing there with hundreds of others who had come to share the joy.

Hung high above the traffic along Main Street were reindeer in lights. The sales and wait staff in shops and restaurants were dressed in their winter pajamas to celebrate the North Pole Express making a holiday stop at the Cotton Belt Railroad District through Christmas. 

From the Grapevine Opry Country Christmas to the historic pioneer cabins, and the City’s signature wineries and tasting rooms, Christmas was everywhere and everyone was filled with the spirit of the season. You could see it in the children’s faces. But, it was not just the Santa kind of Christmas. It was bigger than that as it should be. It was a peaceful, Joy to the World, reason for the season sort of thing and I’m glad that Grapevine is one of the spots that I chose to spend this holiday season.

Merry Christmas y’all.

For a listing of more Christmas celebrations across Texas, check TourTexas.com now!








  Michael Baxter is the Texas Travelin' Man


Alway check TourTexas.com for the latest Texas Travel and Vacation information, brochures, maps and more.

My chocolate malt was a tad thicker and creamier than any that I have had in years. Topped with a mound of whipped cream and a single stemmed maraschino cherry, it was more than tasty . . . for me it was a flashback to the days of Billy Hailey, Chuck Berry and the Big Bopper. This was the real deal right in the middle of Corsicana, Texas.

Originally opened in 1905, The Diner on North Beaton Street is the oldest continually operating soda fountain in Texas and with the same ice cream machine purchased in 1922 it still cranks out old-style Dr Pepper floats, sodas, sundaes and banana splits to customers from the Piney Woods to Waco and north to Ennis. 

It’s been years since I had a Purple People Eater – a tall drink of grape soda and vanilla ice cream, or a Brown Cow – an incredible mix of root beer and chocolate syrup with vanilla ice cream. When was the last time you even heard of a Phosphate? For readers under the age of 50, a Phosphate is a well balanced mix of flavored syrup and soda water over ice. The perfect combination should be left to the professionals like Pepper, our waitress and hand scoop extraordinaire.

As we sat at a red vinyl booth it was impossible not to take in the history around us. The scuffed, stained floor was worn white tile with Art Deco patterns in black, red and teal green. The matching green and red counter was original with a row of chrome-railed red and black vinyl swivel stools. Above the mirrored back wall behind the counter hung a large sign from the early days that read “Hashop Drugs – ice cream”.

Well used Coca-Cola and Dr Pepper fountains rested on the counter top as customers sat and enjoyed their meal to either side.

 I ordered my cheese burger done the old fashioned way, the way burgers used to be served up during the heyday of diners and soda shops. It was loaded with great taste and better memories.

As I savored those memories along with the ¼ lb. stack of beef, lettuce, tomatoes, onions and extra mustard, classic country tunes from the ‘60s floated over head. If only for a moment it was small town Texas from decades past and I was hanging on to every second of it for as long as I could.

When the check came I quickly returned to present day reality . . . there was no 5-cent dipped ice cream or 15-cent soda on my tab like there used to be. But, the modern day price was well worth the cost of admission to this malt shop memory maker in Corsicana.

It’s parade season. Multi-million dollar productions in New York City, Anaheim and elsewhere around the country fill the holidays and our television screens with glitz and pageantry.

But, despite their uber budgets – ask a Hill Country German if you need a definition - those nationally televised events can’t compete in spirit and pride with the productions staged in small town Texas.

Earlier this fall I stood elbow-to-elbow with thousands of spectators along the curb at the Gillespie County Parade in Fredericksburg and the annual Holiday Parade in Tomball.  The excitement and anticipation in the air was as thick as the oak and pecan-infused smoke at the Salt Lick around lunch time.

A jacked up, tricked out F-150 with a local beauty queen, sponsored by a neighborhood florist, and wrapped in yellow roses and tinsel streamers is every bit as special to a small community as a two story fairy tale float on 34^th Street in the Big Apple.

The pride of the local high school band, smartly dressed in its performance garb and marching to the beat of a precision drum line is contagious. There are the old military vehicles sporting the red, white and blue and carrying veterans from WWII, Korea and Vietnam as ROTC units march in step nearby.

In Fredericksburg there was a canopied flatbed trailer filled with seniors rocking back and forth while waving to the crowd. In Tomball it was a Camaro convertible with the recently crowned Mrs. Senior Assisted Living surrounded by her great grandkids.

The distinctly different sirens of a 70-year-old unit and a state-of-the-art fire engine wailed in harmony as they rolled down the flagged boulevard. Men and boys removed their well-worn caps and western hats each time Old Glory passed by. Young girls cringed and giggled when the horses “pooped” on the asphalt.

Wide-eyed kids found it hard to focus on any one element of the procession. Cowboys on horseback to the left were competing with colorful clowns on motor scooters to the right. An Uncle Sam on stilts loped along the yellow stripe on Main Street in Tomball. Antique tractors and hand-pulled red wagons toting costumed farm dogs rolled by in the “Burg”. It was eye candy for all ages and it was all Texas.

Big city parades may have their high flying helium filled cartoon characters, heart-throb celebrities and rose covered rolling wonderlands, but they will never have the down home authenticity of a locally owned parade. It’s a spectacle of community pride. It’s small town Texas and I’ll take that over big city pomp any day.

Over the years the stories, the music, and the history have all combined to give this iconic community between Fredericksburg and Boerne an image that any place would have a tough time living up to.

I had no idea what to expect as I turned onto the Luckenbach Town Loop off of Ranch Road 1376.  I rounded the final curve in the narrow road and there it was . . . a spread of old-style tin-roofed barnwood buildings set beneath towering shade trees and surrounded by rows of motorcycles, SUVs and pickup trucks. Welcome to Luckenbach!

It could have been a movie set, but this was the place of “blue eyes cryin’ in the rain…”.

The dust rose in puffs around my boots as I walked toward the Post Office. A tourist sat on the front porch of the historic old wooden building. A sign overhead read “U.S. Post Office, Luckenbach, Texas, 1850-1971”. We both nodded as I walked past.

The path I picked led to a live acoustic guitar venue where a single performer played his Texas tunes to a small audience of appreciative guests. Like me, some were first timers, while others were regulars who come to Luckenbach when they feel the urge to leave it all behind for an hour or two, listen to a little Country music and sip on a cold Lone Star.

The smell of barbecue filled the air as I took a quick look into the nearby dance hall with its well-worn hardwood floor and array of overhead string lights.  This was the stuff that memories are made of. Some of Texas’ most well known performers have sung their songs here. Ray Benson, Gary P. Nunn, Charlie Robison, and Willie’s daughter Paula Nelson were set for gigs around the holidays. I closed my eyes and could almost hear them among the sound of revving Harley’s and children playing in the manicured glade across the creek.

As the web site reads, “ Luckenbach . . . A Texas state of mind, where you can kick back, relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life—like a step back in time.” That’s true, but for me it was more. It was a look at how Texas used to be and how many of us sometimes wish it still was.  Now that I’ve found it, let’s go to Luckenback, Texas . . . more often.

I was torn. What would it be? What would it be?

I had heard that Holder’s Barbecue and Burgers was the best. Not just in Montgomery County, but among the best in Texas. 

The tales of Bobby Holder’s barbecue brisket sandwich were legend. I’d also been told stories about the juicy cheese burger and how people would drive for miles to his restaurant along Highway 105 in Dobbin between Montgomery and Plantersville. 

As I stood at the walk-up window waiting to place my order I couldn’t help but gawk at the décor. Hundreds of license plates from across the U.S. carpeted the rustic barnwood walls. A handwritten cardboard sign near the register read, “If You’re In A Hurry, Go To Houston!” 

I do love a good cheeseburger, but today the thought of a smoked barbecue brisket sandwich sounded real good. I got it with extra sauce, pickles, onions and pickled jalapenos. As a good friend of mine says, it was “mighty fine.” The brisket was piled high on a fresh bun and the sweet iced tea washed down a side of hot, crispy fries with ease.

The smoky sweet barbecue sauce worked its way into my mustache and ran down my chin. I didn’t even try to stop it. This was good Texas eatin’.

As I savored this roadside treat I took in the atmosphere. Seated to my right at a heavy wooden picnic table with names and hearts carved into its surface was a monk, a gypsy, and two civilians . . . obviously on the way the Texas Renaissance Festival a few miles to the east. A large ice house-style dining room and dance hall to the side featured a whiskey keg bar surrounded by barnwood walls and topped with a high rusty tin ceiling.

Deer and boar head mounts shared wall space along side neons and signs with slogans like, “Fish Naked . . . Show Off Your Bobbers”, and a bikini clad mannequin cowgirl on a balcony overlooking the scene.

The wooden floor had been intentionally designed to creak with the sound of a much older building and the wide garage doors across the way opened onto an oak shaded yard where live music plays when the weather cooperates.  This was the whole package.

The building, barbecue, burgers and Bobby Holder . . . It was a Texas-style treat for the senses, and a great outcome from my dilemma in Dobbin.

Ghost sightings are nothing unusual in San Antonio. The downtown is filled with “spirited spots” said to be the favorite haunts of the departed.

With all the carnage surrounding the siege of the Alamo in 1836 it should be no surprise that the historic site and the city blocks surrounding it are said to be loaded with paranormal activity. Add to that natural deaths in the years to follow and you have the perfect scenario for specters and spooks near the Riverwalk.

The beautiful Menger Hotel is reported to be among the most haunted of San Antonio’s historic downtown locations. Directly across the street from the Alamo and built on the site of Texas’ first brewery, the Menger Hotel opened for business in 1859. From President Theodore Roosevelt to baseball great Babe Ruth, the Menger continues to provide a nostalgic place of rest for the living  . . . and the dead.

My friend Jo Cox spent many years working in San Antonio’s hospitality industry. From the legendary St. Anthony to the Crockett Hotel, and other properties, she says the Menger still ranks at the top when it comes to things that go bump in the night.

There is the story of ghostly hotel chambermaid who was murdered by her husband. Sallie White was so loved by the hotel staff that they paid for her funeral, and out of apparent gratitude she is said to still roam the halls of the Victorian wing of the Menger late at night attempting to continue her assigned housekeeping duties.

The spirit of a woman wearing a blue dress and small, metal spectacles is often seen knitting in the old lobby. It is said that she appears to be an “intelligent” haunting, and actually rude to anyone when spoken to.

Tales of the ghost of King Ranch founder Captain Richard King persist to this day. King spent the last days of his life in his suite at the Menger and his funeral was held in the parlor there. Many employees and guests have said that the spirit of Captain King simply drifts in and out of his former suite without regard for walls and closed doors.

On occasion items have moved on their own or “floated” in mid air, and for years staff and guests have reported hearing voices and laughter when there is no viable explanation. As my friend Jo once told me, the Menger Hotel is the place for a supernatural stay in the Alamo City.

For years the Mernard House at 33rd Street and Avenue N 1/2 has been known as "the" haunted house of Galveston.

Built in 1838, the home of Michael Mernard - one of the original signers of the Texas Declaration of Independence, sat empty for many years with its windows boarded shut. The imposing oaks surrounding the mansion only added to its eerie appearance. In fact, long time Islanders such as my old friend Sheila Lidstone still talk about crossing the street as kids in order to avoid passing directly in front of the "creepy" old house. Like Ashton Villa, Mernard House is today one of Galveston's most beautifully restored historic homes with rumors of its own resident ghost.

According to local legend, well before the Civil War the Mernard House was the site of Galveston's first ever Mardi Gras Ball. At midnight a young woman tripped on the front hall stairway, fell and broke her neck.

For years that followed on Mardi Gras night, Mernard's slaves were said to have seen the ghost of the young woman standing on the stairs. It is not known for sure who the young woman was, but it is believed to be Mernard's daughter, Clara, who reportedly died in her teens.

Another ghostly tale of Galveston Island . . .
 





  Michael Baxter is the Texas Travelin' Man

Always use TourTexas.com for Texas City Maps, Texas Brochures, Family Vacations in Texas and more...

Music Among the Manuscripts

If asked to name the most "spirited" cities in Texas, San Antonio, Galveston and a few others would probably top most lists. But among the rocket scientists, oil workers and its towering office buildings, Houston has accumulated a fair number of haunted hangouts over the years. After all, the Bayou City has been around since 1836.

Mr. Cramer was loner who lived in a basement apartment beneath the library. After working all day he found companionship in Pete and his ever-present violin. Seldom was the night when Mr. Cramer didn't stroll through the building playing beautiful melodies on his instrument, eventually making his way to the ornate rotunda where he would perform one man concerts late into the night. It was said that his lilting version of the "Blue Danube Waltz" could bring a man to tears.

Sometime in the late 1930s Mr. Cramer died in his small basement apartment. But even so, folks said that his music could still be heard throughout the building for years after his passing. Skeptics believed that it was only the wind blowing through the drafty old library, but those who heard the "Blue Danube Waltz" on windless nights were convinced that Mr. Cramer and Pete were still on the job minding the manuscripts at the Houston Public Library.

A short drive up the coast from Corpus Christi are the communities of Rockport and Fulton.

I had driven through several times over the years, but on this particular day I decided to stop and see what it was that many of my friends found so endearing about this part of Texas.

Sure, being on the Texas Gulf Coast in itself was a plus, but there had to be more. There had to be something else that draws guests by the thousands  . . . it didn’t take me long to find out why.

We came into Rockport down a drive of eclectic shops, restaurants and art galleries. The pastel colors, shingle signs, and wall murals were what you might expect from a quirky coastal community.

 My favorite wall art was a faded advertisement for The Cool Coast Camp. An almost folk art image of what appeared to be a giant sawfish was painted on a building along with a notation of its 17-foot length, 6 ½ foot width and 2,000 lbs. weight. To the side it read free admission, and at the bottom was brushed, “Hamburgers and Ice Cream”. I love this stuff!

Our next stop was the marina with row after row of gulf worthy vessels, some with masts, others without, but all really cool for a guy who has spend very little time on the water. Nearby were the public beach and the Texas Maritime Museum. A boater told me that the Museum was the site of the annual Rockport Festival of Wine & Food, and was filled with stories about the rich maritime history of Texas. He had me at wine and food.

From there my Texas Travelin’ Gal and I drove over to the neighboring community of Fulton with its resort-style homes and hidden getaways. It was there that we happened upon the incredible Fulton Mansion, completed in 1877. 

With an architectural design reminiscent of the Addams Family with a Texas flare, the Fulton Mansion offers a rare glimpse into the posh Victorian world of a prominent South Texas family during the days when central heating, interior gas lighting and flush toilets were a novelty here.

From birding and fishing, to shopping for art treasures, or just relaxing in the salty breeze, I now have a better understanding of why my buddies like this part of the state. The Rockport/Fulton area is now on my list of places to spend more time when traveling along the south Texas coast on Texas 35.

It has sat quietly along Highway 237 between Warrenton and Round Top for more than a century - a tiny sanctuary for reviving the soul and praising the Lord.

At just over 250 square feet, Saint Martin’s is said to be the World’s smallest Catholic Church. The simple white frame structure is home to an equally small congregation that meets there for Mass once a month.

From the hardwood floor - worn smoothed from years of wear, and twelve small bench pews, to the exposed roof beams and traditional bell steeple above, this pint sized house of worship may be simple in construction, but it’s filled with the Spirit.

On either side of the ornate gold and white painted alter are iconic symbols Catholicism: the Virgin Mary, Christ and a Crucifix, and a large oil painting of St. Martin – Patron Saint of soldiers. There are vases of fresh and silk flowers, and framed words of wisdom.

A hand-written note lay on the Alter – an open letter to God. Though short on words, the message was strong. “Almighty Father. Empower the Holy Spirit to help us with decisions that we have to make at this time. Sweet Jesus, give strength to our daughter and her family to cope with having a very special daughter, our RETT ANGEL. Thank you Lord for all you have given us, especially our children.”

He was sitting on a bench outside the recently restored railroad Depot in Hearne when I walked up with my camera in-hand. I nodded hello and he returned the gesture.

The Depot was nice. From the fresh paint and well manicured landscaping, to the attention given to authenticity, I was impressed.
 

I circled the historic yellow and brown building then took shots of the crossed sections of track out front signifying Hearne’s history as a cross-road for the railroad as lines traveled from north to south and east to west across Texas.

It was when I went to shoot an old railroad handcar mounted on a section of track alongside the Depot that he first spoke to me. “Want me to take your picture?” he asked in a slow drawl. “Climb up there and I’ll take your picture if you want.”

He was a gray mustached older gentleman, dressed in jeans and boots, with wide blue suspenders that almost glowed against a faded red shirt. On his red trucker cap was an embroidered patch sporting an old-style steam locomotive and the words “Progress Through Safety, Southern Pacific”.

I told him that I appreciated the offer, but would really like to take his photo on the handcar if he didn’t mind. He agreed and stepped high onto the car with the ease of a much younger man.

I got my shots and as he stepped back down to the track bed below he introduced himself as Bobby Jack Middleton, my guide for day if I wanted to take a look inside the Depot. As we walked Mr. Middleton explained that he was born and raised just a few miles north of Hearne in Calvert. He told me about leaving the small town long ago and working the rails for almost 40 years as a track maintenance man from one end of Texas to another.

As we talked Mr. Middleton showed me rooms of display cases filled with items such old oil lamps used by conductors and engineers many years ago. There were railroad signs on the walls, old freight carts loaded with authentic steamer trucks and well worn suitcases, and memorabilia from a time when the Western Union telegraph was as common as text messaging is today. The restored Western Union office inside the Depot is a near exact replica of how it once was according to my guide. And he should know . . . he remembered when this office was fully operational.

After my tour we continued to talk about his adventures on the rails and how, though it had been a tough life, it had been a good one. 

Bobby Jack Middleton is a retired railroad man who found his way home to a small town in Texas.  And, sitting quietly on his bench outside the old Depot in Hearne, he is the sort of character that makes traveling Texas so special.

TOUR TEXAS: They Were Way Too Cool For Me!

I had lunch with Bill Haley and the Comets, Rick Nelson and the Four Tops the other day . . . no, not in rock and roll heaven; at the City Diner & Oyster Bar in downtown Corpus Christi.

The City Diner has been a landmark for decades with an eclectic look of art deco architecture and a ’50-style black and white pallet. It’s a sort of Mel’s Drive-In with an attitude and no curb service.

We were led to our table past an open mesquite grill used on steaks and juicy mega burgers. There were miles of stainless steel, pink and white neon, and gray-topped tables paired with vinyl covered chairs and booths. As they used to say - it was a serious blast from the past.

A wall along side our corner booth was covered with framed yearbook pages and class photos from the 50s and 60s including an 8x10 black and white image of everyone’s favorite Angel, Farrah Fawcet. She must have been 18 or so, and a cutie even before the infamous red swimsuit pin-up poster.

While waiting for our meal to be delivered by a waitress who called me “hon”, my Texas Travelin’ Gal and I took in the atmosphere and listened to classic oldies like “Poison Ivy”, “Rock Around the Clock”, and “Blue Velvet”. We heard the Everly Brothers explain in song how little Suzy’s goose was cooked, her reputation was shot. So sad for Suzy, but my lunch was here!

Loaded with cheese, pickles, onions, jalapenos, lettuce and tomato, on a fresh bun, the quarter pound “Greasy Burger” was just as advertised . . .”A Hamburger should be a little greasy or it’s just not a Hamburger”, the menu read. The mesquite grill in the lobby had done its job well. Bring on the big, thick chocolate malt and this diner delight could not have been better.

Lunch at the City Diner was a tasty trek back to the time of real American music and messy burgers, black and white wall tiles and touches of maroon in a black and gray carpet. It was an escape from cookie cutter menus and eateries found along the freeway from Orange to El Paso. It was the kind of place where Arthur Fonzarelli or Danny Zuko would have hung out with Sandra Dee, Connie Francis and the Texas Travelin’ Man.

Who am I kiddin’? They were way too cool for me!

The City Diner is at 622 North Water Street in downtown Corpus Christi.

The Busy Bee Café sits alongside the railroad tracks in old Pearland. Though the building looks relatively new, a sign over the door reads, “A Texas Tradition Since 1935”.

We found the Busy Bee Café by accident while cruising through Pearland looking for cool “stuff” to write about for this blog, and as is often the case . . . it just “spoke to me”. “Hey buddy . . . yeah, you in the red pickup. Try me out. You’re gonna like it!”

My wife called the surroundings cute. Straight-back wooden chairs at café-style tables beneath an open ceiling, and giant Lone Stars and Texas memorabilia hung on the walls. The hand-dipped Dreyer’s ice cream station at the counter was an unexpected surprise. That’s when the café spoke to her, “Hey lady . . . yes you with the old guy on a mission. Try me out. You’re gonna like it.”

There was an awesome list of Texas-style comfort foods surrounded by local advertising from front to back in the brown paper menu. An ad for Long’s Auto Repair and Wrecker Service was posted above the heading BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY, and smaller spots for Studio Five Eighteen Salon and Right Price Movers were paired with the list of  thirteen burgers and sandwiches, and five poor boy combinations … all “served with fries or chips”. I was going to like this place.

The waitress was small town friendly and offered suggestions from the fried catfish and baked potato stuffed with taco meat or barbecue beef, to homemade meatloaf and smothered chicken. But today was one of those days when you have to say to yourself . . . let’s do it.

I ordered the house specialty - chicken fried steak with white gravy. My sides were fried okra and fried green tomatoes, and the most incredible homemade corn casserole that I had ever eaten . . . ever. The top was crispy, it was filled with giant kernels of whole corn, and the flavor . . . it was oh, so tasty. Just like grandma never used to make.

Stuffed with the entrees we only sampled the old-style cornbread and rolls, but did take a couple of containers filled with blackberry cobbler for the road. Hours later they were still amazing.

If the Busy Bee Café has been serving meals like this for more than 70-years, it’s no wonder why it’s been a Texas tradition since 1935. It will no doubt become a tradition for me when traveling through Pearland in the days ahead. It spoke to me.  It said, “You’re gonna like it,” and it was right.

The Busy Bee Café is at 4009 West Broadway in Pearland, Texas 77581. Call ahead at 281-485-8690.

• My first choice was a Hilton brand hotel, but their rates were not what I wanted.
• My second choice was a Marriott brand hotel and I found one that fit the bill. The Springhill Suites by Marriott, Medical Center, Six Flags. The rate was $89/night for a suite with complimentary hot continental breakfast (make your own waffles), indoor (small) pool, free local calls and free internet. It’s located on I-10 just 10 minutes from Six Flags, 25 minutes from SeaWorld, 20 minutes from downtown and 35 minutes from Natural Bridge Caverns. This is a limited service hotel, and there were some challenges with housekeeping (but now-a-days with limited staffing, many hotels have the same problems). That being said, the hotel is one of the newer ones, the suites were very spacious, clean and I would return.

So what can we expect in 2010? If I knew that I wouldn't be writing this blog. I would use my powers to pick Lottery numbers and things like that.

If you believe the Doomsday hype, you have less than 3 years to use all your Frequent Flyer Miles. It may take you that long to get a confirmed seat.

So here is what I see in 2010 for Texas:

• Hotel occupancy will increase slightly, but there will be great bargains.
• You will visit as many Texas cities as possible
• The best deals will be on Luxury Hotels & Resorts. There are plenty of them throughout Texas.
• So many Texas attractions, so little time
• Car rental rates will continue to skyrocket. There are some smaller, lesser known car rental companies you may want to look for, such as EZ Rent a Car in Dallas for instance.
• You will eat only in local Texas restaurants. Break to chain.
  
• Southwest Airlines will most likely begin charging for bags (once they see how much the other airlines have made on baggage)
• The highest room rates will be in San Antonio, so if you see a deal, grab it.

Travel Tips to help you save money

Compare rates on a site like www.kayak.com.

Once you find a hotel where you want to stay, look on their website to see what rate they have. If you feel it’s too high, call the hotel, ask for the manager, tell him or her you will be visiting the area several times in 2010 and you would like a lower rate. Example. If the lowest rate is $100, ask if they can extend a rate of $75. The worst that can happen is they say no. They may say I can give you an $80 rate. You just saved $20/nt. (and you may just get an upgraded room). You can also use the accommodation search feature on TourTexas.com to find the best prices on Texas hotels by booking directly with the lodger.

If you have to rent a car, try not to rent it from an airport location as it usually costs more.

Book a tour package. They will save you time and money.

Happy New Year Y'all!

Gallivantin' in Galveston, Texas

Galveston, Texas continues to make music. There are a few band members missing, but the beat goes on.

This was my first visit since Hurricane Ike and my first impression as I drove over the Causeway was things are looking good. The mighty Seawall did its job. It kept Galveston as safe as possible. Just about all the hotels and restaurants in Galveston are open and doing well.

One of the best things to come out of Hurricane Ike is the new Galveston Beach. I could tell you how much new sand they brought in, but you just have to see it to believe it.

Moody Gardens (in my opinion it's the place to stay and play in Galveston)

The hotel is as good as ever. The only thing missing are the fish in the lobby pond. They were having a special on Sushi the day I was there, but that may have just been a coincidence. As for the attractions, they're all open.

What can I eat on the Island?
You can smell the fresh seafood as you are driving along Seawall Blvd. Once you enter certain restaurants such as Casey's (Gaido's casual cousin) most of what you smell is fried seafood.

A few suggestions. Don't order the Fried vegetable combo. It's not worth the calories. Also if you like Louisiana Po-Boys, stay away from the Po-Boys at Casey's. The grilled anything is the way to go, and the menu is priced right.

Go Mediterranean on Pier 21. The Grill at Pier 21 opened in June and is right on the harbor. The restaurant is beautifully designed, but make sure you dine al fresco. Now here's a tip for dining al fresco. Never turn away from your food. Why you ask? You want to make sure nothing drops in it from above. Is that a caper in my salad? Now if you are dining with Al Fresco, you have nothing to worry about. The food is top notch and the prices are reasonable. They even offer you 3 free hours of parking. Oh by the way. If you dine (al fresco) Friday or Saturday night there is live music and belly dancers.

The Strand

Is everything open? No. But renovations are everywhere. Is there enough to see, eat and drink? You bet your Tequila there is. If you liked Galveston before, you'll like it now. Don't wait to visit. Visit Galveston now. Not because they really need you to, but because you'll have a great time.

Where to Stay

Moody Gardens Hotel, Hotel Galvez, San Luis Resort, Hawthorne Suites at The Victorian and The Tremont are all top notch and ready to swipe your creditcard.

What to Eat

Soooo many restaurants, but the only tip I'll give you is go seafood. Now that being said it doesn't have to be your typical seafood restaurant. There are great Italian, Mediterranean, Asian and BBQ Restaurants. OK, here is another tip. Don't eat the seafood at a BBQ restaurant.

What to Do

Moody Gardens, horse drawn carriage rides, Bishops Palace, Duck Tour, Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig Museum, The Strand and The Schlitterbahn waterpark to name just a few.

Here are 2 audio clips you may enjoy:

Gallivantin' Galveston Gal (Gene Autry)


Quick As I Could (Billy Bourbon)

For more information or to order a free travel brochure, visit Galveston on TourTexas.com. Go ».

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