Galveston Island is one of the most "spirited" towns in Texas.  From the old community cemetery on Broadway to several stately homes and residences on the east end, Galveston is said to be filled with Gulf Coast ghosts after sunset.

Carl Wade is was said to be one of several folks over the years to see for himself evidence of one of Galveston's well known specters - the ghost of Miss Bettie Brown, the flamboyant hostess of Ashton Villa. Ashton Villa is a marvelous example of Italianate architecture built in 1859 by James Moreau Brown. Today the magnificent house on Broadway is a museum home open to the public.

Though strongly denied by management for many years, it has been rumored for years that the spirit of Miss Bettie is still very much "alive" and well at Ashton Villa. "While my brother was a docent at the house he told me about straightening a bedspread in Miss Bettie's sitting room at closing time only to find it rumpled the next morning as if someone had sat or slept on it during the night," reported Carl's sister Adrienne.

The rumpled bed linens were just one of the more regular occurrences referred to by staff members over the years when speaking of Miss Bettie's spirit. It was reported that a caretaker sleeping in the carriage house adjacent to Ashton Villa was awakened late one night by the sound of a piano playing. He reluctantly entered the house and is said to have seen the faint image of a woman sitting at the keyboard of the home's beautiful antique piano. An instant later the music stopped and the apparition vanished. Needless to say the flustered caretaker slept with the lights on in his carriage house apartment for the rest of the night.

There are stories of ceiling fans and lights that mysteriously turn off and on, burglar alarms sounding while in the "off" position during the day, and a trunk belonging to Miss Bettie that locks and unlocks itself without a key. There was an alleged sighting of Miss Bettie during Galveston's annual Dickens Christmas blow-out in 1991. An unidentified woman in a nineteenth century turquoise gown was seen by a docent standing at the top of the home's grand staircase. What made this so odd was that Ashton Villa had not yet opened to the public, and no staff person working in the house was dressed in a turquoise gown that day. The incident was written off as nothing more than Miss Bettie overseeing the final preparations for the holiday festivities.

Though there have been many unexplained happenings reported throughout the years, no one has ever had an ill-feeling about the house or its resident spirit. Ashton Villa's former manager Lucy Testa summed it up best saying, "Several of us have had different feelings while in the house, but never anything spooky or gloomy. It's a happy house, and we were never afraid of the presence that we all knew lived there," she said.

Small Texas towns. What’s not to like about them? Maybe it’s a special shop, restaurant, historical site or the town “character” you meet at the gas station that makes the visit memorable. But, on this day it was more. It was the white limestone church on the hill with its steeple towering above twisted old trees. It was the historic Bethlehem Lutheran Church in Round Top.

Dedicated in 1866, the church was designed in an old world style by Carl Bauer, a German immigrant who moved to Texas along with so many others during that time. The $2,400 cash needed to construct the building was collected by the congregation and all the inside furnishings – from the altar covering to the massive pulpit Bible and Crucifix - were donated.

For more than 140-years, music has lifted high into the sky around Round Top every Sunday from the handmade cedar pipe organ that still plays from the balcony overlooking the sanctuary. Its 408 hand-shaped pipes were crafted from cedar trees grown nearby.

On the gently sloping turf to the rear is the church cemetery.  There are the headstones marking the final resting places of church founders, Texas war veterans, children taken by illness and more. It’s the history of Round Top there to ponder.

As impressive as the building, its contents, and its long history are, one element within the church spoke to me like no other; God’s glass . . . the stained glass windows that have inspired congregations for generations.

Shades of blue and purple are wrapped in bands of gold and orange. Diamond shaped panels spray a rainbow of colors onto worshippers seated in the well-worn wooden pews below.

Each window displays its own distinctive biblical message in a circular pattern among the diamonds. One features a lamb and pennant, another a cross and crown, and a third displays an open bible with the Greek letters Alpha and Omega. The image of two carved stone tablets with the Roman numerals “I, II, III, IV . . . X” share another window with crossed trumpets announcing “Ye Praise the Lord”. It is an emotionally moving display of spiritual art created by devout German believers in small town Texas at the end of the Civil War.

The Bethlehem Lutheran Church is at 409 S. White Street, just a block or two off Highway 237 in Round Top. You can’t miss it . . . just look for the steeple on the hill and God’s glass in the walls.

TOUR TEXAS: Whiskey. Steaks. Whiskey. Steaks.

I’ve made the Josephine Street Café in San Antonio a regular stop for more than 25-years. It’s the kind of place that locals flock to every day and tourists happen upon by accident or on the recommendation of someone who knows good food.

I can remember twenty-five years ago asking the concierge at the Hilton Riverwalk where I might find a good restaurant where the locals eat. He told me to go out of the driveway, then down Broadway, take a left at the Pearl Brewery and look for the flashing signs that read “Whiskey, Steaks, Whiskey, Steaks” . . . he added “park under the freeway and order the steak”.

Since that first outing little has changed at the Josephine Street Café and I wouldn’t visit the Alamo City without a steak and Shiner Bock in a corner booth there.

On this trip a buddy and I settled in around sunset. I didn’t even have to look at the menu. It was the 16 oz. T-bone steak with mashed potatoes, white gravy and a single, large onion ring that spoke to me.

Regular customers and first-timers continued to come and go on the well worn hardwood floor as classic county music played overhead. The old wooden bar along one wall was busy with orders for Texas craft beers, Budweiser and mixed drinks. A waitress patiently waited behind the tree that pierces the dining room floor and ceiling, while a group of customers made their way to their table.

I really love this place. It’s like Cheers with history. From the wait staff to the customers, Texas friendly is the norm and the food is consistently the primary reason for coming.

My steak, topped with seasoned butter, was done just right, and went down great with the ice cold Texas beer from the little brewery about two hours to the east of San Antonio.

My friend and I talked about this and that, watched the diners as they enjoyed their meals, and laughed at the passing convertible party bus decorated with Lone Star and Schlitz beer signs. It was a great night to be in San Antonio.

That’s when our waitress suggested the “best apple pie and ice cream in the entire state of Texas”… come on, who could pass that up? Not me.

Several minutes later the large slice of homemade apple pie with an equally large scoop of Bluebell vanilla was set down on our table. It was awe inspiring . . . a sugary golden crust over cinnamon laced baked apples, and a layer of melting Texas tradition.

The Josephine Street Café is San Antonio. It’s one of those places where the locals congregate to have a good time over a great meal or a brew or two. It’s my go-to place when passing through and I can’t wait to try the ribeye on my next trip to town. I might even have another slice of apple pie.

TOUR TEXAS: "PIGGIN' OUT" IN SAN ANTONIO

It had been three years since my last visit to the San Antonio landmark. No, not the Alamo. The original Pig Stand Restaurant founded in 1921.

Once a nationwide drive-in chain, today it’s only the original eatery on Broadway in the shadow of I-35 that has survived with a full menu of oh-so-good comfort food and old-style service.

A short drive from the touristy destinations along the Riverwalk, the Pig Stand is a flashback to a time when the waitresses called everyone sweetie, signature recipes remained unchanged from year to year, and repeat customers were your best marketing partners.

Smartly dressed in black slacks and shoes, a starched white blouse and long black apron, Cheryl took my order. “Welcome to the Pig Stand,” she said with a slight drawl, taking my drink order . . . the ice tea is really nice. Really.

Before looking at the menu I asked what one item the Pig Stand was best known for. Without hesitation she said, “Oh sweetie, that’s the pig sandwich . . . “. She had me at “sweetie”.

While waiting for my dinner I took in the surroundings. The booths were tufted red and gold sparkle vinyl, with diner-style tables of cream colored tops and a well-worn aluminum strip around the lip. The busy counter offered a similar color scheme with individual swivel stools for diners going solo or wanting a quick in-and-out service.

A tribute to the early years, each booth had its own mini-juke box loaded with hundreds of tunes from Techno-Cumbia and ZZ Top, to George Strait and the Angels . . . “My boyfriend’s back and you’re gonna be in trouble…” It was a serious blend of music for the diverse mix of customers who frequent the restaurant.

On the walls, shelves, counter tops, booth backs, bars and hanging from the tiled ceiling were examples of all things PIG. Ceramic pigs, metal pigs, glass pigs, piggy banks, flying pigs, stuffed pigs, pig pitchers and salt and pepper shakers, a pink pig mailbox, pig sculptures, pig neons, pig pictures, pig paintings and Miss Piggy herself . . . awesome!

It was a wondrous moment when Cheryl sat my meal in front of me. The pig sandwich was a stack of pork tenderloin smoked on-site with a light spicy relish and homemade barbecue sauce to rival the best I’ve ever tasted. Double dipped fries and a lone onion ring complemented the Cole slaw made fresh throughout the day from a secret recipe that my waitress wouldn’t share. Dinner was a serious treat with a 90-year legacy.

As I ate I watched customers come and go, each being greeted by Mary Ann Hill, longtime owner of the Pig Stand who worked her way up from waitress to “top sow”. Her smile was infectious and her welcome was genuine to all who walked in.

Cheryl came back to check on me. “How ‘bout some dessert sweetie?” she asked. “We have the best peach cobbler in Texas . . . I wouldn’t lie to you.” Again, she had me at sweetie. 

The big bowl of homemade peach cobbler with Bluebell vanilla was without a doubt impressive. Sweet, crusty and with a hint of cinnamon . . . combined with a cup of fresh decaf and this was a blog worthy experience.

On my way out of San Antonio the next morning I stopped by the Pig Stand for a quick breakfast of egg and chorizo sausage tacos and coffee. Oh, it made the four hour drive home to Houston much more enjoyable.

 Thank you Mary Ann . . . I will be back.

Fall in Texas. Sometimes it’s cool, sometimes it’s not. Sometimes there’s color in the leaves, and other times no so much. This year it’s been a lot like the scorching, dry summer that has preceded it. But despite what nature may serve up in any given year, fall in Texas is legendary for two things . . . football and the tailgate parties that come before the action on the field.

From the Pros to college, and high school to youth leagues, tailgating is a statement. It’s an art. It’s the opportunity to experience a shared interest with a few friends or a few hundred. It’s a serious part of fall football and no one does it better than Texas.

An Aggie by marriage, I was invited to make the trip to College Station recently to watch the SMU Mustangs go head-to-head with Texas A&M. I had never been to a game at Kyle Field so I was really looking forward to the contest.  

Dressed in my recently purchased maroon and white, I was ready for the game, but not for all the pre-game parties that I found clustered throughout the campus. It was the sort of thing that I had heard about from die-hard fans for years, but not even my fertile imagination would have done justice to the real thing.

Row after row of Aggie logoed pop-up tents cozied up to motor homes, folding chairs, ice chests, smokers and barbecue pits fired by Kingsford charcoal or 12-inch splits of hardwood. I’m sure that there were some Hank Hill propane aficionados somewhere, but they were well hidden from the purists among the shrubs and pick-ups.

I joined a group of Aggie tailgaters, not be confused with LSU “tailgators”, in a parking lot several long blocks from Kyle Field for a bit of pre-game revelry prior to kick-off.  The “Saw-em-Off Rangers” were a blend of alums, current students, family and friends brought together for an evening of football frenzy. Some had game tickets, while others would cheer their team on gather around the large flat-screen TV attached to the rear of the massive maroon and white tailgater trailer.

With the smell of smoke and barbecue from surrounding parties in the air, pans of well-seasoned beef and chicken fajitas were set out on our tables along with warm tortillas, guacamole, pico and more. Homemade desserts like chocolate iced Rice Krispy Treats and Jamie’s Whoop Pies – maroon-colored red velvet delights with sweet sour cream icing between the muffin top layers – provided a balance.

Large chests filled with iced cans of the official beverage of Texas were bottomless, as was the camaraderie. Washers were tossed at holes in plywood game squares much like horseshoes at posts. Footballs were flung overhead and maroon porta-potties soon filled to capacity. It was a great day to be on the campus of Texas A&M University.

Football season in Texas is short lived, but its long standing traditions live on. The rivalries are fierce and time spent together at the tailgate party deepens old friendships and creates new ones.

 If nothing more, grab a bucket of spicy wings, a six-pack of Shiner 102 and a buddy, drop the tailgate on your pick up or set a card table in the driveway, then crank up a game on the radio . . . It’s how we celebrate here. It’s football season in Texas.










  Michael Baxter is the Texas Travelin' Man

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He was sitting on a bench outside the recently restored railroad Depot in Hearne when I walked up with my camera in-hand. I nodded hello and he returned the gesture.

The Depot was nice. From the fresh paint and well manicured landscaping, to the attention given to authenticity, I was impressed.
 

I circled the historic yellow and brown building then took shots of the crossed sections of track out front signifying Hearne’s history as a cross-road for the railroad as lines traveled from north to south and east to west across Texas.

It was when I went to shoot an old railroad handcar mounted on a section of track alongside the Depot that he first spoke to me. “Want me to take your picture?” he asked in a slow drawl. “Climb up there and I’ll take your picture if you want.”

He was a gray mustached older gentleman, dressed in jeans and boots, with wide blue suspenders that almost glowed against a faded red shirt. On his red trucker cap was an embroidered patch sporting an old-style steam locomotive and the words “Progress Through Safety, Southern Pacific”.

I told him that I appreciated the offer, but would really like to take his photo on the handcar if he didn’t mind. He agreed and stepped high onto the car with the ease of a much younger man.

I got my shots and as he stepped back down to the track bed below he introduced himself as Bobby Jack Middleton, my guide for day if I wanted to take a look inside the Depot. As we walked Mr. Middleton explained that he was born and raised just a few miles north of Hearne in Calvert. He told me about leaving the small town long ago and working the rails for almost 40 years as a track maintenance man from one end of Texas to another.

As we talked Mr. Middleton showed me rooms of display cases filled with items such old oil lamps used by conductors and engineers many years ago. There were railroad signs on the walls, old freight carts loaded with authentic steamer trucks and well worn suitcases, and memorabilia from a time when the Western Union telegraph was as common as text messaging is today. The restored Western Union office inside the Depot is a near exact replica of how it once was according to my guide. And he should know . . . he remembered when this office was fully operational.

After my tour we continued to talk about his adventures on the rails and how, though it had been a tough life, it had been a good one. 

Bobby Jack Middleton is a retired railroad man who found his way home to a small town in Texas.  And, sitting quietly on his bench outside the old Depot in Hearne, he is the sort of character that makes traveling Texas so special.

In 1984, Vernon and Mary Bowers opened Kuntry Katfish with just ten tables and seating for forty. Today the Conroe landmark on Highway 105 has grown to three simply decorated dining rooms filled with catfish connoisseurs seven days a week.

I could have had a fried shrimp platter, frog legs or crawfish etouffe. I could have filled up on chicken fried steak with cream gravy or a half-pound Kuntry burger. But, when you venture beyond the end of your driveway to an eatery with the word “Katfish” in its name, you order the catfish.
 

I’ve eaten at Vernon’s Kuntry Katfish before, so I waited in mouth watering anticipation for the first course – a plate filled with hot southern hushpuppies fresh from the fryer and a bowl of signature pickled green tomato relish. . . oh, baby! 

The combination of those hot, crispy fried cornbread balls and the sweet and spicy tang of relish conjured up images of fishin’ poles and lazy green rivers, while “Mountain Music” by the band Alabama wafted from the speakers overhead.

When my order arrived I took a moment to enjoy the aroma and the presentation before me.  Five large, corn meal crusted catfish fillets were fried to golden perfection and stacked on a mound of homemade, skin-on fries. The freshly made tartar sauce only delivered more hits of deep south memories of my kidhood. As on previous visits to Vernon’s, my greasy fingers and I were lovin’ it.

Bite after bite soon made me realize that once the plate had been emptied there would be no room Vernon’s signature desserts. I love the homemade banana pudding, pecan cobbler, and brownies with ice cream, but this was the right decision for this particular visit. Catfish had brought me here and I would leave with the taste of catfish on my lips.

There are lots of good catfish restaurants across Texas. Mel’s in Tomball, Catfish Charlie’s in Corpus Christi, and the Clear Springs Restaurant in New Braunfels top my list. But today I was satisfied with the hushpuppies, tomato relish and tasty fillets that I found in Conroe, Texas.

Vernon’s Kuntry Katfish is at 5901 Old Highway 105 W. in Conroe. Visit www.kuntrykatfish.com for a look at the menu. 

   

TOUR TEXAS: They Were Way Too Cool For Me!

I had lunch with Bill Haley and the Comets, Rick Nelson and the Four Tops the other day . . . no, not in rock and roll heaven; at the City Diner & Oyster Bar in downtown Corpus Christi.

The City Diner has been a landmark for decades with an eclectic look of art deco architecture and a ’50-style black and white pallet. It’s a sort of Mel’s Drive-In with an attitude and no curb service.

We were led to our table past an open mesquite grill used on steaks and juicy mega burgers. There were miles of stainless steel, pink and white neon, and gray-topped tables paired with vinyl covered chairs and booths. As they used to say - it was a serious blast from the past.

A wall along side our corner booth was covered with framed yearbook pages and class photos from the 50s and 60s including an 8x10 black and white image of everyone’s favorite Angel, Farrah Fawcet. She must have been 18 or so, and a cutie even before the infamous red swimsuit pin-up poster.

While waiting for our meal to be delivered by a waitress who called me “hon”, my Texas Travelin’ Gal and I took in the atmosphere and listened to classic oldies like “Poison Ivy”, “Rock Around the Clock”, and “Blue Velvet”. We heard the Everly Brothers explain in song how little Suzy’s goose was cooked, her reputation was shot. So sad for Suzy, but my lunch was here!

Loaded with cheese, pickles, onions, jalapenos, lettuce and tomato, on a fresh bun, the quarter pound “Greasy Burger” was just as advertised . . .”A Hamburger should be a little greasy or it’s just not a Hamburger”, the menu read. The mesquite grill in the lobby had done its job well. Bring on the big, thick chocolate malt and this diner delight could not have been better.

Lunch at the City Diner was a tasty trek back to the time of real American music and messy burgers, black and white wall tiles and touches of maroon in a black and gray carpet. It was an escape from cookie cutter menus and eateries found along the freeway from Orange to El Paso. It was the kind of place where Arthur Fonzarelli or Danny Zuko would have hung out with Sandra Dee, Connie Francis and the Texas Travelin’ Man.

Who am I kiddin’? They were way too cool for me!

The City Diner is at 622 North Water Street in downtown Corpus Christi.

The Busy Bee Café sits alongside the railroad tracks in old Pearland. Though the building looks relatively new, a sign over the door reads, “A Texas Tradition Since 1935”.

We found the Busy Bee Café by accident while cruising through Pearland looking for cool “stuff” to write about for this blog, and as is often the case . . . it just “spoke to me”. “Hey buddy . . . yeah, you in the red pickup. Try me out. You’re gonna like it!”

My wife called the surroundings cute. Straight-back wooden chairs at café-style tables beneath an open ceiling, and giant Lone Stars and Texas memorabilia hung on the walls. The hand-dipped Dreyer’s ice cream station at the counter was an unexpected surprise. That’s when the café spoke to her, “Hey lady . . . yes you with the old guy on a mission. Try me out. You’re gonna like it.”

There was an awesome list of Texas-style comfort foods surrounded by local advertising from front to back in the brown paper menu. An ad for Long’s Auto Repair and Wrecker Service was posted above the heading BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY, and smaller spots for Studio Five Eighteen Salon and Right Price Movers were paired with the list of  thirteen burgers and sandwiches, and five poor boy combinations … all “served with fries or chips”. I was going to like this place.

The waitress was small town friendly and offered suggestions from the fried catfish and baked potato stuffed with taco meat or barbecue beef, to homemade meatloaf and smothered chicken. But today was one of those days when you have to say to yourself . . . let’s do it.

I ordered the house specialty - chicken fried steak with white gravy. My sides were fried okra and fried green tomatoes, and the most incredible homemade corn casserole that I had ever eaten . . . ever. The top was crispy, it was filled with giant kernels of whole corn, and the flavor . . . it was oh, so tasty. Just like grandma never used to make.

Stuffed with the entrees we only sampled the old-style cornbread and rolls, but did take a couple of containers filled with blackberry cobbler for the road. Hours later they were still amazing.

If the Busy Bee Café has been serving meals like this for more than 70-years, it’s no wonder why it’s been a Texas tradition since 1935. It will no doubt become a tradition for me when traveling through Pearland in the days ahead. It spoke to me.  It said, “You’re gonna like it,” and it was right.

The Busy Bee Café is at 4009 West Broadway in Pearland, Texas 77581. Call ahead at 281-485-8690.

Karla Nash is passionate. Whether it’s about good wines, good friends or working hard, the passion is obvious. That’s why her boutique winery in the small town of Montgomery west of Conroe is so popular. The passion.

She and a girl friend started Cork This! Winery a couple of years ago with the goal of creating a fun place where folks could stop by for a glass, a tasting or a bottle, socialize with other wine lovers and just have fun far from the big city. “Not bad for a place started by a couple of chicks”, said Karla while giving me a tour.

The majority of the new yet vintage looking building is where the good times happen. Large windows overlook a patio of umbrellaed tables facing Highway 105. Over stuffed couches sit among displays of wine, wine related merchandise and t-shirts with phrases like, “Grandma’s Sippy Cup,” “Got Wine?” and “Group Therapy” all in colorful sequined “bling”. Behind the bar is where the bottling happens for all to see.

With a temperature controlled back room filled with carboys of wine in all stages of production, Cork This! produces a line of products with labels and faux health warnings on the outside every bit as fun, whimsical and tasty as the wine on the inside. 

Seventeen varietals in all, there are the Overly Committed Pinio Grigio and the Irreconcilable Differences Syrah. The One Night Stand Cab Sauvignon is on the rack next to Boot Leg Red, a winner at the 2010 International Wine Competition of the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. The house white is called Girls Night Out and R.U.B., or Rich Urban Biker, Merlot will “get your motor runnin’, just don’t head out on the highway”.

The label art is reminiscent of illustrator Jack Davis or one of many other Mad Magazine cartoonists from the early 1960s, and phrases like, “Warning. Consumption of alcohol may lead to pregnancy” are the norm.

Cork This! is one of the ten wineries found along the Texas Bluebonnet Wine Trail that stretches from Montgomery to Brenham. Quirky girls night out events like  Botox, Wine & Chocolate! are staged every month for boutique shopping, chocolate fountain and all the fixin's, wine and of course . . . Botox. No Testosterone allowed. 

My Texas Travelin’ Gal and I got a kick out of visiting with Karla Nash, and I’m sure a bottle or two of Ed’s Red Malbec will be included on a road trip to Montgomery real soon. Cheers!

Cork This! Winery is at 21123 Eva Street in Montgomery, Texas . . . right across Highway 105 from the historic Montgomery cemetery. Call 936-597-4030 or visit www.corkthiswinery.com.

For Texas travel information about real Lone Star destinations and more, always visit tourtexas.com

I didn’t really know what to expect as I walked into the Texas Prison Museum in Huntsville. 

All that I knew about prison life had come from B-movies with titles like “The Big House”, “Caged” and my all time favorite, “Reform School Girls”. Johnny Cash sang about it in his classic tune “Folsom Prison Blues”, lamenting how “I ain’t seen the sunshine since I don’t know when . . . ” But the truth is doing time behind bars is something that most of us can’t imagine.

Setting an immediate mood is the lack of color inside the museum. Exhibits are sandwiched between a gray concrete floor and the black ceiling high above. Many of the display cases are done in the same simple scheme, while others are wrapped in “brick” for an added splash of authenticity.

The men were all drawn to a display of weapons issued to Texas prison guards over the years. There was a Thompson sub-machine gun with a round drum magazine, a variety of shotguns and a “gas gun” used to lob tear gas canisters into groups of unruly inmates.

Kids seemed to most enjoy the colorful memorabilia from the world famous Texas Prison Rodeo encased behind glass and chain link fencing. Held from 1931 until 1986, the Texas Prison Rodeo was dubbed “The Wildest Rodeo in Texas” and featured traditional rodeo events with inmate “cowboys” riding the bulls and broncs. Performers such as Tammy Wynette and George Jones, Willie Nelson and Tanya Tucker were regulars every October in the Rodeo’s heyday.

The women couldn’t help but pose for photos behind the bars of a replica prison cell with its bunk bed and stainless steel “facilities”. With both hands gripping the bars the faux felons would consistently smile for the camera in the first shot and then change expression to a “woe is me” look for a second.

On display was a nickel-plated 1911-style pistol taken from the Bonnie and Clyde “death car”, along with discolored newspapers recounting the events in which the notorious duo was ambushed and killed on May 23, 1934 on a Louisiana back road.

“Last Statement”, an artistic photo exhibit of black and white images and text by Barbara Sloan and Kelly Prew, chronicles the impact of murder and execution, and how those actions affect families and friends on both sides – the victim and the convicted.

Some of the last statements profiled express sorrow, while others talk about regrets, or ask for forgiveness. On the other hand there are several that offer nothing but contempt for the system. Johnny Frank Garrett was executed on February 11, 1992 for the murder of a 76-year-old nun named Sister Tadea Benz. In his last statement Garrett thanked his family for loving him and then told the rest of the world to “kiss my ass!”  

By far the star atrraction was Old Sparky, the Texas electric chair used to execute 361 prisoners between 1924 and 1964. Displayed in a dimly lit “death chamber”, Old Sparky glowed beneath a single accent spot light. It was easy to imagine why death row cons sent to Old Sparky were said to be “Riding the Thunderbolt.”

Where there had been much chatter in other parts of the museum, an unexpected quiet surrounded Old Sparky. I think everyone who stepped up for a look realized at that moment that this simple straight-backed wooden chair had ended many lives over the years. No one spoke, and no jokes or comments were made. The only sound was the clicking of camera shutters as visitors paused to ponder. 

The Texas Prison Museum is thought provoking and presents a piece of Texas history that, though not always pleasant, is real. It’s about life and death. It’s a must see stop when in Huntsville. 

For Texas travel information about real Lone Star destinations and more, always visit tourtexas.com

The Texas Prison Museum is at 491 Hwy 75 North in Huntsville, Texas. Call (936) 295-2155  or visit www.txprisonmuseum.org

It was another of those times where I’m traveling alone and, as if predestined by the sages of the Texas back roads, I meet someone with a new story to send me off of my planned itinerary. His name was Bobby Jack Middleton.

Bobby Jack and I had just finished a tour of the recently restored train depot on Highway 6 in Hearne. A 38-year veteran of the Union Pacific railroad, he knew enough back stories to could fill volumes about working the rails and the local history of Hearne, Calvert and the surrounding towns. 

As I was walking out the depot door to my truck Bobby Jack asked, “Have you ever heard of Camp Hearn?” I had not. In a strong Texas drawl he gave me the quick version of Hearne’s contribution to the World War II war effort . . . a prisoner of war camp known as Camp Hearne - home to captured members of German Field Marshall Erwin Rommel’s famed Afrika Korps.

Bobby Jack’s directions were the best. “Go just up the road about a mile to the new Love’s Truck Stop and take a left,” he said. “Then go another mile or so and it’s on the left . . . you can’t miss it.” He was right. 

I drove into the site and parked next to the only other vehicle in the gravel lot. There in the grass sat a full sized reproduction of an original barrack surrounded by concrete slabs where once other such buildings had stood. It was wood framed with sliding windows for ventilation and black tar paper on the outside walls.

The heat inside was stifling as I walked in, but the temperature didn’t seem to bother my guide, Melissa Freeman, as she talked about the camp’s opening in late 1942, it’s 5,000 person capacity and that there was once enough barbed wire around the Camp to have stretched from Houston to Chicago and back again two times.

She then led me into an adjoining room. It was air conditioned and filled with vintage photos and artifacts unearthed at the 290-acre site by researchers from Texas A&M University. Glass cases displayed POW uniforms and German mess kits, remnants of personal hygiene items, buttons, bottles and books, Nazi insignias and more.

One piece, a German canteen, had been artistically etched by its owner to depict his journey from the Fatherland to Tunisia, and then after his capture from North Africa to New York and eventually Hearne, Texas.  

For more than an hour Melissa entertain me with her stories. She explained how Rommel’s own orchestra had been captured by the Americans and brought to Hearne. Image the locals being treated to classical and jazz tunes by professionally trained German musicians every weekend among the scrub brush and guard towers – well, it happened at Camp Hearne between 1943 and 1945. 

She then told me about the Camp theater that was built by the German prisoners so that they could stage their own “way-way- WAY-off-Broadway” performances. With actresses unavailable, men played both the male and female parts in these productions.

Never would I have suspected that Hearne, Texas played host to thousands of German combatants throughout much of WW II. Neither would I have suspected that a chance encounter with a retired railroad man would have sent me on an adventure where history was played out, and still lives today for anyone who turns left at the new Love’s Truck Stop.

Visit www.camphearne.com or call 979-814-0733 for more information.

It had been three years since my last visit to the Chicken Oil Co., and today I had the urge for a Texas burger and a brew.

The Chicken Oil Co. opened in Bryan as a gas station and burger shop in 1977. Since then it has stopped selling gas, and has become one of the coolest eateries in Texas.

On the well-worn hard wood floor I stood side-by-side with twentysomething other customers, a six-foot-tall cigar store Indian and a classic Seeburg “Select-o-matic” juke box waiting to place my order. Behind the counter Jessica was offering advice to a family of first timers who all decided on the quarter pound Snuffy Burger Special with a Coke and fries – the C.O.C.’s most popular menu item.

My turn at the counter came just as Willie and Waylon began pleading, “Mamas don’t let your babies grow up to be cowboys” from speakers hidden among the exposed beams high above.  Knowing that quarter pound Snuffy burgers were for beginners I stepped forward and with authority in my voice ordered the loaded half-pound Snuffy with cheese and jalapenos, fries and a Shiner Bock. It just don’t get any better than that.

I took a seat at one of the many rustic-style tables with an assortment of initials and phrases carved into its surface. Above me on a wall was a display of 350 old beer cans from breweries such as Blatz’s, Pearl, Black Label, Dixie and Gilley’s.

Oil and beer signs hung from the ceiling and along the walls in every direction. A winged Pegasus of the Mobile Oil Company and the Sinclair Dino stood out from the other more mundane gasoline placards, while as expected Lone Star and Shiner neons lit the room in a soft glow.

Riding the ceiling beams were rows of worn out western saddles sharing space with a menagerie of mounted sailfish, bears, ducks, deer and moose. It’s like the Smithsonian Institute of Texas with country music, cheeseburgers and beer.

My name was called and I picked up my order. A half pound Snuffy burger is something to savor, so I took my time unwrapping the crisp white paper surrounding the meal that I had driven more than 100 miles to eat. It was hot and juicy. The combination of cheese, mustard and mayo, diced onions and spicy peppers on the fresh bun completed the presentation.

More and more customers filled the dining room as Willie broke into “Georgia On My Mind” from the speakers at the tin ceiling above the saddles, and I dug in to my side of Texas-style fries. It was a meal to brag about to your buddies back home, and one that I will definitely enjoy again the next time I pass through Bryan.

Bon Appetit Pardner!

For Texas travel information about real Lone Star destinations and more, always visit tourtexas.com

Visit the Chicken Oil Ranch at 3600 S College Ave, Bryan, TX 77801, or call (979) 846-3306. On the web it’s at dixiechicken.com/articles/chicken_oil_co.

Most sports fans are familiar with their names. Astros. Rangers. If you’re a newcomer to Texas maybe your favorite team is a Brave or Cardinal.

Though Big League games are filled with big name players that fans of baseball love to watch, honestly it’s the Minor Leagues where the real fun is found simply because of its small town nature, promotional antics and grassroots fan base. It’s baseball the way it used to be.

From the Hooks at Whataburger Field in Corpus Christi and the Air Hogs in Grand Prairie, to the Missions in San Antonio and the soon to play Skeeters in Sugar Land, Minor League baseball is flat out fun.

A few years back my wife and I took in a game at Dell Diamond in Round Rock. At that time the Round Rock Express was home to the Triple-A farm team for the Houston Astros. Talents such as pitcher Roy Oswalt and outfielder Hunter Pence had passed through that franchise on their way to the “Bigs” in Houston.

The ballpark is first class with turf to rival any major league field and thousands of green seats . . . it was a sea of green from the mound to the press box. Foul ball dinged brushed aluminum panels lined the walls of the upper deck, and there was seating for hundreds more on the grassy outfield berm beyond the fence and in the glass-faced box seats for fans with connections.

We had paid the mind-boggling low price of $12.00 a ticket for two great seats behind the home team dugout along the first base line. It was a perfect night for baseball in central Texas, and as the sun set one could feel the excitement; the excitement of small town baseball being played by young guys hoping to make their childhood dream come true.

As we sat there in the stands among hundreds of retirees, school kids, families and UT Longhorns from the University of Texas, we had expected to see a great game, but never imagined that we’d soon become a part of Minor League baseball history.

The game was close as the Nashville Sound’s young pitcher Manny Parra pitched his game. Strike outs, ground outs, and fly outs continued to mount, inning after inning until the last history making pitch.

The local newspaper reported it like this: “ROUND ROCK – He’s been good all season, but on Monday Manny Parra was perfect. The 24-year-old from Sacramento retired all 27 batters he faced in Nashville’s 3-0 victory over Round Rock, completing the eighth perfect game in Pacific Coast League history in just his second Triple-A start.”

In the bottom of the 9^th inning Parra clearly had Round Rock fans in his corner. With each pitch they cheered, with each out the anticipation grew . . . imagine a perfect game. One out . . . it couldn’t have be scripted any better. Two outs . . . everyone was on their feet shouting encouragement to an opposing pitcher. Then came the pitch to clinch the game. A pop-up to second base and it was done.

Parra leaped from the mound into a bear hug from his catcher as the rest of the Nashville Sound piled on, bouncing in unison like some giant uniformed mass of caps and cleats. The cheers and applause of the appreciative Texans in the stands continued to grow as the celebration on the field went on.

At some point Parra realized that the fans of the Round Rock Express were not leaving, but were in fact giving him the sort of thunderous ovation normally reserved for a hometown hero. It was then that the true quality of a professional shown through. Manny Parry stepped out from among his teammates and raised his cap to the crowd in sincere appreciation.

There was jubilation between the baselines and in the stands as the young pitcher shared his accomplishment with everyone at Dell Diamond that night. As we walked to the car the last image that I saw on the giant centerfield screen was Parra signing autographs for young wannabes with big league dreams of their own.

Manny Parra went on to the Majors the next season and today pitches for the Milwaukee Brewers. Others who played that night, such as Houston Astros’ catcher Umberto Quintero, also made it to the “Game”. And, for those of us in the stands, we’ll always remember the excitement and the enthusiasm of a 24-year-old ball player who for nine innings in the Minors was Pitcher Perfect.

Earl Haggard was born and raised a crawfish throw from Baton Rouge in the community of Livingston, Louisiana, but like so many before him he says that he got to Texas just as fast as he could.

Today the sixtysomething Lone Star transplant is living out a creative passion and love for his adopted home through Haggard’s Country, several acres of Texana, western-style memorabilia, and handcrafted home furnishings tooled by Earl himself.

Located on the rolling rural landscape along Highway 105 in Plantersville, at first glance Haggard’s Country could easily pass as a picker’s paradise. Surrounding the rustic retail building, storage sheds and workshop are rows of brightly colored folk art chickens and authentic wagon wheels, Longhorn skulls, Mexican pottery, and large metal stars proclaiming “God Bless Texas” and “Texas A&M”. 

The dusty old wooden stairs and front porch made a welcoming sound beneath my boots as I drew open the door and stepped inside the barnwood-faced showroom. Some may describe it as Texas chic’, ranch rad, or maybe even classic country, but no matter what handle you tag it, Haggard’s Country is a breed of its own. 

Facing me there among the spurs and western purses were Earl-made log and timber beds dressed out with pillows and over-sized star patterned quilts like my Mema Lucille used to make when I was a kid. Large ranch house dining tables with place settings of brown and blue, and centerpieces of cattle horn and wrought iron stuffed with dried wildflowers were to my right.

Beneath massive exposed beams at the rear of the room Earl was adding the finishing touches to a six-foot-tall saddle lamp that he had recently designed. A well used saddle was mounted to the dark wooden frame and a lariat loop was hung over the horn. A shade resembling laced parchment or hide rode on top. It was the perfect piece for someone decorating with a western flare.

Earl Haggard is an artist, a true craftsman and above all a character that you can’t help but like from the moment you meet him. He tells all who’ll listen that he’s a distant cousin to Merle Haggard, though the boast is usually followed by a slight grin beneath his full gray beard.

Earl’s humor is displayed throughout the property on hand-painted signs with quick quips like “No matter how hard you try, you can’t baptize a cat,” and “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy!”

The locals know Earl as a good friend and neighbor. First time visitors to Haggard’s Country quickly become new friends. His heartfelt “howdy” and firm, rough-skinned handshake are truly sincere. He may not be a native born Texan, but Earl Haggard is Texas enough for me.

Haggard’s Country is at 17527 Highway 105 E. in Plantersville TX, 77363. Call 936-894-2810.

For Texas travel information on real Lone Star destinations, always visit tourtexas.com.

Gallivantin' in Galveston, Texas

Galveston, Texas continues to make music. There are a few band members missing, but the beat goes on.

This was my first visit since Hurricane Ike and my first impression as I drove over the Causeway was things are looking good. The mighty Seawall did its job. It kept Galveston as safe as possible. Just about all the hotels and restaurants in Galveston are open and doing well.

One of the best things to come out of Hurricane Ike is the new Galveston Beach. I could tell you how much new sand they brought in, but you just have to see it to believe it.

Moody Gardens (in my opinion it's the place to stay and play in Galveston)

The hotel is as good as ever. The only thing missing are the fish in the lobby pond. They were having a special on Sushi the day I was there, but that may have just been a coincidence. As for the attractions, they're all open.

What can I eat on the Island?
You can smell the fresh seafood as you are driving along Seawall Blvd. Once you enter certain restaurants such as Casey's (Gaido's casual cousin) most of what you smell is fried seafood.

A few suggestions. Don't order the Fried vegetable combo. It's not worth the calories. Also if you like Louisiana Po-Boys, stay away from the Po-Boys at Casey's. The grilled anything is the way to go, and the menu is priced right.

Go Mediterranean on Pier 21. The Grill at Pier 21 opened in June and is right on the harbor. The restaurant is beautifully designed, but make sure you dine al fresco. Now here's a tip for dining al fresco. Never turn away from your food. Why you ask? You want to make sure nothing drops in it from above. Is that a caper in my salad? Now if you are dining with Al Fresco, you have nothing to worry about. The food is top notch and the prices are reasonable. They even offer you 3 free hours of parking. Oh by the way. If you dine (al fresco) Friday or Saturday night there is live music and belly dancers.

The Strand

Is everything open? No. But renovations are everywhere. Is there enough to see, eat and drink? You bet your Tequila there is. If you liked Galveston before, you'll like it now. Don't wait to visit. Visit Galveston now. Not because they really need you to, but because you'll have a great time.

Where to Stay

Moody Gardens Hotel, Hotel Galvez, San Luis Resort, Hawthorne Suites at The Victorian and The Tremont are all top notch and ready to swipe your creditcard.

What to Eat

Soooo many restaurants, but the only tip I'll give you is go seafood. Now that being said it doesn't have to be your typical seafood restaurant. There are great Italian, Mediterranean, Asian and BBQ Restaurants. OK, here is another tip. Don't eat the seafood at a BBQ restaurant.

What to Do

Moody Gardens, horse drawn carriage rides, Bishops Palace, Duck Tour, Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig Museum, The Strand and The Schlitterbahn waterpark to name just a few.

Here are 2 audio clips you may enjoy:

Gallivantin' Galveston Gal (Gene Autry)


Quick As I Could (Billy Bourbon)

For more information or to order a free travel brochure, visit Galveston on TourTexas.com. Go ».

Make the most of your travels through Texas, the Lone Star State with the help of TourTexas.com. Everything you need to plan your Texas vacation in one place. View Texas travel and tourist information on popular Texas city destinations, attractions, events, Texas city maps, book your accommodations, and even order free TX travel brochures, visitor guides, maps, and more.

A Blog about Texas travel? Why not? What will be different from other Blogs about traveling in Texas? You'll just have to keep reading to find out.

Now I'm not a native Texan, but I'm a Traveler. I've lived in Texas since 2005 and have had the opportunity to see just a small part. My goal is to visit every corner of this great state to find the good, the bad (I'm not looking for the bad, but I know it's out there) and the ugly. I'm also very opinionated. So you'll hear about the good things and the bad. Are my opinions right? YES. Will you have different opinions? Sure. Will you have an opportunity to refute my opinions? Yes. I dare you. I'll also give you some helpful travel tips, not just for Texas.

Topics you'll be seeing on a regular basis:

• Places to eat and places not to eat.
• I'm searching for the best Chicken Fried Steak (I've stocked up on Zocor)
• Travel bargains
• Websites to check out
• Tell me where to go (I know you want to)

Travel Tip: When searching for the lowest hotel rates and you don’t want to use an online travel agency like Travelocity, Expedia, etc, go to a specific hotels website (or a chains website) and check out their rates. They should be the lowest available. You can also go to the destinations Convention and Visitors Bureau website and if you see a search box that says “BookDirect” you can view the lowest rates of all the hotels that are available with just a few clicks.

So keep an eye on out (old joke) for my Blog, and let's have some fun.

Make the most of your travels through Texas, the Lone Star State with the help of TourTexas.com. Everything you need to plan your Texas vacation in one place. View Texas travel and tourist information on popular Texas city destinations, attractions, events, Texas city maps, book your accommodations, and even order free TX travel brochures, visitor guides, maps, and more.

It was the kind of day that comes around far too seldom. In fact, it was an alternative route that brought such delight as a constant rain fell from the north Texas sky.

As in Robert Frost’s classic poem, “The Road Not Taken”, I decided to drive home along the road less traveled, and just as Frost had poetically suggested, it really did make all the difference.

In the roundabout route I took Highway 377 outside of Fort Worth and traveled south passing through one small town after another. For the longest time the blinding mist from fast moving 18-wheelers in the opposite lane flew up from the road making it difficult to see what was ahead.

I had never driven this stretch of road and therefore had no idea what to expect, but that was the fun it all. I never knew that Stephenville was home to the Cross Timbers Country Opry where for just $8.00 you could be entertained every Saturday night by the Country Express and other real Texas performers. They’ve been at it since 1979.

Then there was the town of Hico. There were two signs at the city limit welcoming visitors to this busy little community along Highway 6 west of Waco. The first sign read, “Welcome to Hico. Where Everybody is Somebody.” I think that’s a similar slogan to the one used by Luckenbach, but what the heck?

The other welcome sign proudly announced, “Hico, home of Billy the Kid”. Luckenbach may have Waylon, Willie and the boys, but it doesn’t have Billy the Kid.

There was even a big sign inviting me to visit the Bill the Kid museum and gift shop. I never found the museum, but the life sized statue of Billy in a shooting stance with gun drawn was prrree-ty impressive.

The highlight of the road trip was the two hours that I spend in Dublin, Texas, population 3,000. For 120-years Dublin has bottled the famous Dublin Dr Pepper - the only Dr Pepper still made using Imperial Pure Cane Sugar. When bottlers around the world were switching to corn syrup and other sweeteners, the little plant in Dublin kept turning out bottles of my favorite soft drink the old fashioned way.

The 30-minute tour of the old bottling plant and museum was a serious trip back in time. As the rain continued to pour outside, the sweet, fruity Dr Pepper continued to pour inside. Next door in Old Doc’s Soda Shop I sat at one of the small, wire-framed retro tables across from the soda fountain that had been painted lime green to match the wood interior of this classic old stone building.

Dr Pepper memorabilia and gift items hung from the walls. I ordered a PB&J sandwich and chips and washed it down with a couple of ice cold DPs. For dessert I sampled a few Dr Pepper flavored Jelly Bellys. It was too good.

Being the Dr Pepper fan that I am, I grabbed a couple of cases of the original formula in the bottle (no cans . . . it changes the taste they say) to share with the uninitiated back home the next day.

“I shall be telling this with a sigh, somewhere ages and ages hence. Two roads diverged in a wood, and I – I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.” . . . you got that right Mr. Frost.

 
For Texas travel information about real Lone Star destinations and more, always visit tourtexas.com.

Vacationing with the family in the 1950s was a lot different from today. I remember rolling along two-lane highways in our white over turquoise Ford Fairlane while singing to rock and roll tunes on the AM radio. Our air conditioning was called 4-40 . . . that’s all four windows rolled down at 40 mile per hour. 

Bathroom breaks were on the roadside or the occasional small town along the route, and oh how we looked forward to the big billboards featuring images of pecan nut logs that read, “Stuckey’s . . . 100 miles”, “Stuckey’s . . . 99 miles”, “Stuckey’s . . . “. It was a great time to travel.

A part of the adventure in those days was where you spent the night. Would the motel have a flashy neon marquee and a pool with green water or would the restaurant serve French toast with powdered sugar. Would the room smell like your grandma’s musty old closet, or would a roach the size of Zippo run across the ceiling after lights out? You never knew what to expect.

About 60 miles southwest of Houston in the laid back community of Wharton is a nostalgic tribute to those days long past. It’s the sort of place that many of may remember, but probably didn’t have the opportunity to stay in. It’s an old-style roadside motel with just ten units lined in a row like ten little Indians; after all this is the Tee Pee Motel.

Originally built in the early 1940s just off of what is now Highway 59, the Tee Pee Motel is the ultimate throw back to another time and has become a regional landmark. I had driven past it for years, but on this day decided to stop in for look. 

As I cruised by the towering arrows that dot the closely cut lawn I flashed back to when I was a kid. And, though I never stayed in one, I remembered seeing similarly painted concrete tee pees while on family vacations and in Travelogs.

The motel staff was friendly and jumped at the chance to show me what the interior of a modern day tourist tee pee looks like. I’m sure that Native Americans never traveled with free Wi-Fi access, cable TV, microwave, refrigerator and a coffee maker. Poor them. Lucky us.

The décor was nothing fancy, but the room was clean and smelled fresh . . . nothing like the buffalo hide and campfire smoke of the earlier models. Earth tone colors and Indian patterns filled the room. It was the kind of old skool getaway that folks should experience at least once in a lifetime if only to say that they had slept in a true blast from the past. 

After more than 70- years the Tee Pee Motel is one of only four original tee pee-style properties remaining in America, and it’s the only such lodge in Texas. It’s an icon from a simpler time. It’s the kind of place where I should have dozed off clutching my Red Rider with dreams of Roy and Dale. Maybe it’s not too late to play the tee pee tourist . . . We’ll see.

For Texas travel information about real Lone Star destinations and more, always visit tourtexas.com












The Texas Travelin' Man is Michael Baxter